Vehicle No Crank, Vehicle Appears To Have A Dead Battery
With a vehicle No crank, remove the battery compartment lid from under the passenger seat and inspect the battery.
• Inspect the battery cable terminal clamps for damage. Replace any battery cable that has a damaged or deformed terminal clamp.
• Inspect the battery tray and battery hold down hardware for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
• Slide the thermal guard off of the battery case, if equipped. Inspect the battery case for cracks or other damage that could result in electrolyte leaks. Also, check the battery terminal posts for looseness. Batteries with damaged cases or loose terminal posts must be replaced.
• Inspect the battery thermal guard for tears, cracks, deformation or other damage. Replace any battery thermal guard that has been damaged.
• Inspect the battery built-in test indicator sight glass (if equipped) for an indication of the battery condition. If the battery is discharged, charge as required.
The battery jumper posts must be used when jump starting the vehicle in order to avoid damage to the vehicles 150 Amp TIPM Battery Feed Fuse. Jumper post locations are shown.
Fig. 1 Jumper Post Locations
1 – Battery (+) Jumper Post
2 – Battery (-) Jumper Post
3 – TIPM
The vehicles 150 Amp TIPM Battery Feed Fuse is located under the Battery (+) Jumper Post Cover (#1 in the figure below). The fuse can be blown during attempts to jump start the vehicle when the positive jumper cable is connected to the TEPM Battery (+) Terminal (Fig.1) instead of the Battery (+) Jumper Post.
Fig. 2 Battery Positive Jumper Post
1 – Battery (+) Jumper Post with the cover removed
When servicing the TIPM: the battery must first be disconnected. Contact between the Battery (-) Jumper Post and the TEPM Battery (+) Terminal (Fig.2), without the battery being disconnected may cause damage to the vehicles 150 Amp TEPM Battery Feed Fuse. The vehicles 150 Amp TEPM Battery Feed Fuse is located under the Battery (+) jumper cover (Fig.3).
Fig. 3 TIPM Power Feed
1 – TIPM Battery (+) Terminal
2 – Battery (-) Jumper Post
CAUTION: If the cause of starting problem on a vehicle no crank is severe, damage to booster vehicle charging system can result.
When using another vehicle as a booster source, park the booster vehicle within cable reach. Turn off all accessories, set the parking brake, place the automatic transmission in PARK or the manual transmission in NEUTRAL and turn the ignition OFF. On disabled vehicle, place gear selector in park or neutral and set park brake. Turn off all accessories. Connect jumper cables to booster battery. RED clamp to positive terminal (+). BLACK clamp to negative terminal (-). DO NOT allow clamps at opposite end of cables to touch, electrical arc will result. Review all warnings in this procedure.
CAUTION: It is very important not to use the B+ connection at the TIPM when jump starting the vehicle.
The 150 amp fuse in the fuse block that feeds the TIPM will blow. Use only the positive jump post (3) that is located in the wiper plenum on the right hand side of the vehicle. On the disabled vehicle, pull up and remove the protective cover over the remote positive (+) battery post (3). Connect the RED jumper cable clamp (2) to positive (+) terminal (3). Connect BLACK jumper cable clamp (1) to engine ground (4).
Start the engine in the vehicle which has the booster battery, let the engine idle a few minutes, then start the engine in the vehicle with the discharged battery.
CAUTION: Do not crank starter motor on disabled vehicle for more than 15 seconds, starter will overheat and could fail. Allow battery in disabled vehicle to charge to at least 12.4 volts (75% charge) before attempting to start engine. If engine does not start within 15 seconds, stop cranking engine and allow starter to cool (15 min.), before cranking again.
Disconnect cable clamps as follows:
• Disconnect BLACK cable clamp (1) from engine ground on disabled vehicle.
• When using a Booster vehicle, disconnect BLACK cable clamp from battery negative terminal. Disconnect RED cable clamp from battery positive terminal.
• Disconnect RED cable clamp (2) from battery positive terminal on disabled vehicle.
• 2011 Chrysler Jeep Grand Cherokee
• 2011 Dodge Durango
Master Tech Lee Davidian, Sr.
Positive Crankcase Understanding
History of the PCV – Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve
Before the 1960s car engines were vented to the atmosphere. That is, toxic vapors that were created by exhaust gases leaking past the rings (called “blow-by”) and into the crankcase were simply allowed to flow out of the engine. PVC was, usually, accomplished by a metal tube that routed from the top of the engine down underneath. The air flowing under the car helped to draw vapors out. As engines aged, those vapors contained more and more soot and other contaminates that contributed to smog and overall pollution.
GM researchers identified engine blow-by gas as a major source of hydrocarbon emissions and developed the Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve, commonly known as the PCV valve, to cap the leak. Made standard on all GM cars sold in the U.S. beginning in 1963, it was the industry’s first vehicle emissions control device. Before 1963 PCV was only used in California. There is a variety of PCV systems used on various makes and models of cars produced since 1963, but all function essentially the same.
PCV control valve action
Vapor is then carried with the fuel/air mixture into the combustion chambers where it is burned. Since the manifold vacuum is constantly changing, some sort of control must be in the system. This control device is the Flow Control Valve, commonly referred to as the PCV Valve.
PCV systems can be described as either open or closed. The two systems are quite similar. However, the closed system in use since 1968 is more effective at air pollution control. The systems differ in the manner in which fresh air enters the crankcase and excessive vapor is expelled.
Positive Crank Case Understanding
Open PCV Systems
The open system draws fresh air through a vented oil filler cap; usually, chrome-plated in restored cars. This works fine as long as the vapor volume is minimal and when the engine is running. However, when the crankcase vapor becomes excessive – or when the engine is shut off – it is forced back through the vented oil filler cap and into the open atmosphere. The open PCV system, though successful at removing contaminated vapors from the crankcase, is not completely effective as a pollution control device.
Closed PCV Systems
The closed PCV system draws fresh air from the air filter housing. The oil filler cap in this system is NOT vented. Consequently, excess vapor will be carried back to the air filter housing and from there into the intake manifold. The closed system prevents vapor, whether normal or excessive, from reaching the open atmosphere. The closed system is very effective as an air pollution control device.
The PCV Valve – More Complicated Than You Think
The purpose of the PCV valve is to meter the flow of the vapor from the crankcase to the intake manifold. This is necessary to provide proper ventilation for the crankcase while not upsetting the fuel/air mixture for combustion.
Blow-by gases and vapor should be removed at about the same rate they enter the crankcase. Since blow-by is minimal at idle and increases during high-speed operation, the PCV valve must control the flow of vapor accordingly. The PCV valve is designed to compensate for the engine ventilation needs at varying engine speeds. It is operated by manifold vacuum, which increases or decreases as engine speeds and loads change.
For example, at low or idle engine speeds manifold vacuum is high. This pulls the plunger to the extreme-forward position or manifold end of the valve. Due to the shape of the plunger, vapor flow is reduced to a minimum. The low rate of the flow is adequate for ventilation purposes and will not upset the fuel/air mixture ratio.
At high speeds, the manifold vacuum is decreased. The plunger is only drawn to a point about midway in the housing. This allows a maximum flow of vapor. Since the engine needs more fuel/air mixture at high speeds, the introduction of more vapor does not significantly affect performance. In the event of a backfire, pressure from the intake manifold forces the plunger to the closed or engine-off position. This prevents the backfire flame from reaching the crankcase and exploding the combustible vapor.
Okay? Now What If It Isn’t Working Properly?
A neglected PCV system will soon fail to function, and the result can be expensive as well as troublesome for the car owner. If the crankcase is not adequately ventilated, the motor oil will become contaminated and heavy sludge accumulations will begin to form. Internal parts, not protected by the motor oil, will begin to rust and/or corrode due to the water and acids that will become trapped within the crankcase.
If the PCV system is not functioning properly, the flow of crankcase vapor into the intake manifold will not be properly metered. This, in turn, will upset the fuel/air mixture for combustion and can cause rough idling or even stalling of the engine. Furthermore, intake and exhaust valves, in addition to sparking plugs, may eventually be burned and rendered useless, prematurely affecting performance and requiring expensive repairs. To assure trouble-free performance of the PCV system and, in turn, the engine and vehicle, routine maintenance of the PCV system is recommended and required.
Millions of owners think that if a PCV valve rattles when shaken that it is okay. Wrong! Just because it rattles doesn’t mean its calibrated spring is metering correctly. Cleaning the PCV doesn’t accomplish anything either. A PCV valve should never be cleaned and placed back into service. Cleaning the PCV valve will result in a clean PCV valve; not a new PCV valve.
Some contaminants will remain in the PCV valve that can never be flushed out. Additionally, there is an amount of wear that will be experienced by the spring that cleaning cannot replace.
What are the Symptoms of a Bad PCV VALVE?
The positive crankcase ventilation or PCV valve is inexpensive and the part most consumers overlook. It is also one of the possible causes of expensive oil leaks and sludge buildup inside the engine.
All automotive engines are lubricated with oil, and when oil is churned by moving parts, the pressure is produced by combustion. Piston rings and valve guides also leak slightly producing pressure, called Blow-by, in the crankcase. Many years ago, the engines would simply vent the pressure into the atmosphere with a road-draft tube and breather cap. Today we use positive crankcase ventilation or PCV system to handle this, and also to help lower the harmful emissions engines produce.
The most common problem that afflicts the PCV systems is a plugged up PCV valve or hose. Accumulation of fuel and oil varnish deposits and/or sludge inside the valve can restrict or even block the flow of vapors through the valve. A restricted or plugged PCV valve cannot pull moisture and blow-by vapors out of the crankcase. The valve can cause engine-damaging sludge to form and the backup of pressure that may force oil to leak past gaskets and seals. The loss of airflow through the valve can also cause the air/fuel mixture to run richer than normal, increasing fuel consumption and emissions. The same thing can happen if the pintle inside the PCV valve sticks shut.
If the pintle inside the PCV valve sticks open or the spring breaks, the PCV valve may flow too much air and lean out the idle mixture. The PCV may cause a rough idle, hard starting, and/or lean misfire (which increases emissions and wastes fuel). The same thing can happen if the hose that connects the valve to the throttle body, carburetor, or intake manifold pulls loose, cracks, or leaks. A loose or leaky hose allows “un-metered” air to enter the engine and upset the fuel mixture, especially at idle where the idle mixture is most sensitive to vacuum leaks.
On late-model vehicles with computerized engine controls, the engine management system will detect any changes in the air/fuel mixture and compensate by increasing or decreasing short term and long term fuel trim (STFT and LTFT). Small corrections cause no problems, but large corrections (more than 10 to 15 points negative or positive) will typically set a lean or rich DTC and turn on the MIL.
Problems can also occur if someone installs the wrong PCV valve for the application. The flow rate of the PCV valve is calibrated for a specific engine application. Two valves that appear to be identical on the outside (same diameter and hose fittings) may have different pintle valves and springs inside, giving them very different flow rates. A PCV valve that flows too much air will lean the air/fuel mixture while one that flows too little will richen the mixture and increase the risk of sludge buildup in the crankcase.
Watch out for cheap replacement PCV valves. They may not flow the same as the OEM PCV valve. Quality OEM brand replacement PCV valves are calibrated to the specs the manufacturers designed them to operate in, which provide long-lasting, trouble-free performance.
Note: On many 2002 and newer vehicles with OBD II. the OBD II system monitors the PCV system and checks the flow rate once during each drive cycle. But on older OBD II and OBD I systems, the PCV system is NOT monitored. So the problem with the PCV system on a pre-2002 vehicle probably won’t turn on the MIL
(malfunction indicator lamp) or set a diagnostic trouble code (DTC).
How the PCV system works
The PCV system is relatively simple. An inlet hose connects to a filtered air source. This is used to supply clean air that is drawn through the engine. Most of the time this air is supplied through the engine air filter. On a few designs, there is a separate inlet filter that cleans the incoming air for the PCV system only. This filtered air flows through the engine, picking up fumes and vapors. The air exits through another hose, connected to a manifold vacuum. The flow of air draws fumes from the crankcase and burns them harmlessly in the engine. This also creates a slight vacuum, relieving any pressure that may build. Negative pressure helps to prevent oil leaks and oil consumption by the engine. The PCV valve also helps regulate the amount of airflow, which helps prevent oil from being drawn out of the engine.
Note: PCV system helps remove moisture from oil if driven far enough
The PCV Valve system helps remove moisture, a major contaminant, from the oil
When the engine is running, it generates a great deal of heat and as the engine cools, condensation forms inside the engine. Engine oil additives help absorb this moisture and keep it in suspension. If the moisture content exceeds the capacity of the additives, it will start to attack the metal parts of the engine causing internal engine damage. Keeping up with your regular Oil Changes will help reduce moisture.
Moisture contamination in the PCV system
A sign of engine moisture contamination will show a cloudy or milky film in the PCV valve or hose. If you find water in the PCV valve system, and its hoses, suggests a need for replacement but is also an indication of other problems. Replacing the PCV valve will help get rid of some problems, but the main problem remains, and symptoms will soon return. If we only drive a vehicle on short trips, moisture content means we need more frequent oil changes and longer drive cycles. A moisture buildup with normal driving shows other engine problems, such as Head Gasket, or Cracks, or Intake Manifold Gasket problems Several areas of the engine can allow leakage and oil contamination. Engine Seals and Valve Cover gaskets are the most common areas to leak first. Coolant leaking into the oil is a very serious problem. Without immediate correction, engine damage is likely to occur.
Note: the milky film seen in the PCV Valve system is due to a chemical reaction from the anti-freeze. If no anti-freeze is present in the cooling system, you will not see the whiteness. You have seen oil spills in the ocean from the news, and the oil is still black in color floating on the ocean top, correct?
The engine’s oil filter helps to remove the contaminants from the oil, which are by-products of combustion and moisture. It’s these things that cause internal engine problems over time if the oil and filter are not changed regularly. This is one reason oil changes are a must. Short trips make the problem far worse as the engine does not reach full temperature. Oil and filter should be replaced more often when the average driving distance is under ten-miles. As the engine reaches full temperature, after about 20 minutes of driving, the heat of the oil causes the moisture to boil off and out through the suction action of the PCV Valve. If the vehicle is driven far enough, the PCV system will pull much of this moisture from the oil, in the form of steam. This is one reason vehicles can go further between oil changes when the average trip is very long. With short trips, this does not occur, requiring more frequent oil changes. The type of driving determines oil change needs and is a better guide than just the number of miles driven.
If the PCV system fails, severe sludge buildup and oil leaks can occur
Plugged PVC valve allowed moisture buildup resulting in sludge
A plugged PCV valve causes many other engine problems. Pressure begins to build, and gaskets and oil seals may fail. When an engine suffers multiple oil leaks, You should always inspect the PCV system. Another problem is a lack of airflow to carry vapors from the crankcase. Without airflow, moisture contamination remains, and a sludge buildup is often the result. Operating the engine without adequate ventilation is a leading cause of engine sludge.
How a PCV valve works
Most engines employ a PCV valve at the point where fumes are drawn out of the engine. The PCV valve serves several functions. At an idle, the engine vacuum is very high, around 16 to 20 inches (Hg). This high vacuum would tend to draw oil, as well as fumes from the engine. The PCV valve acts as a buffer against oil being drawn out. It also regulates the amount of vacuum applied to the engine, based on the engine’s load and speed.
Operation of PCV valve under different conditions
At an idle, the engine speed is low, around 600 RPM. A relatively small amount of fuel and air travel through the intake at idle speed. If the PCV valve does not regulate airflow, the engine would act like it had a vacuum leak. Too much air flowing into the intake causes the engine to lean out (too much air in relation to the fuel) and misfire. At an idle, the PCV valve restricts air flow, to reduce this problem. At a high manifold vacuum (idle), the spring-loaded valve is drawn up and partially restricts flow to the crankcase. The first drawing above illustrates the PCV valve position at idle.
On engine acceleration, more fuel and air move through the engine and intake manifold and the vacuum is much lower. Air introduced by the PCV valve has less of an effect on the fuel-air mixture. A low intake manifold vacuum allows the valve to move to a more central position. In this position, the system draws more combustion vapors from the crankcase. The additional flow is very beneficial, without affecting engine performance. The center illustration above shows the PCV valve in the acceleration mode position.
Any pressure in the intake causes flow in the opposite direction. The action of the PCV valve to the pressure will occur during an engine backfire, engine miss, or if the engine is turbo-charged. The PCV valve can act as a check-valve in these situations. By the PCV valve closing, any positive pressure, the fuel vapor is prevented from entering the crankcase. Even if a very small amount of positive pressure can force oil passed gaskets and seals and cause oil and vacuum leaks. Failure of the valve to seal positive pressure may damage the engine.
PCV valve grommets and hoses
Many problems in the PCV Valve system originate from the hoses and mounting components, rather than the valve itself. A PCV valve attaches to the engine in many ways, depending on the design. Manufacturers often use rubber grommets, inserted into a hole in the valve cover. The pliable rubber grommet seals the valve to the cover and holds it in place. On other designs, the valve may screw in or twist-in and seal with on O-ring. The PCV valve must be completely sealed for maximum benefit, very important! Any leak will cause problems, so always inspect the positive crankcase system closely.
Replacing the PCV grommet with the valve prevents problems
Rubber grommets and O-ring seals get hard over time and cause problems. Grommets sometimes crack and split, creating an oil leak and allowing dirt into the engine. Replacing the grommet or O-ring with the valve prevents many problems. Grommets come in a variety of designs, depending on the engine design. Original equipment manufacturer (OEM) grommets work and fit best. If the PCV valve mounts with a grommet, purchase a new one with the valve.
PCV inlet and outlet hoses are also prone to deterioration. Check all hoses in the system when replacing the valve. Hose(s) may become oil soaked and swell, preventing them from sealing the engine. Many hoses get hard with age and crack. A leaking PCV inlet or outlet hose can cause a check engine light or allow debris into the engine.
Automotive manufacturers design the hoses in the PCV system for vacuum and to be oil resistant. The vacuum hose has a stiff sidewall to resist collapsing. These are very different from fuel hose or heater hose, which they design to hold pressure. Always replace the PCV Valve hoses with the original equipment molded hose, from the vehicle manufacturer. Substituting any other hose types very often leads to problems and may cause the positive crankcase ventilation system to fail, creating oil leaks and allow a sludge buildup.
Collapsed PCV hose will block, or restrict the PCV Valve Vacuum flow
Even original equipment hoses sometimes give problems. This is common on Ford and some Mazda vehicles. The hose chosen is not adequate for the task and after miles of use, it will collapse. When this occurs, flow to the PCV valve system stops and the hole in the supply hose may create a vacuum leak. Inspect all hoses in the PCV system and replace any that appear soft, swollen, or collapsed.
Failure and testing of the PCV valve
As the PCV valve ages, several things may happen. Gunk and sludge can cause the valve to stick in the open position. Eventually, will produce an engine vacuum leak and might result in a misfire at idle. Too much airflow causes the engine to lean out, possibly setting a check engine light. The excess flow could also draw oil from the engine, causing oil consumption.
The rattle test give an indication but is not conclusive
Because PCV valves fail in different ways, no test will show all the possible problems. For instance, the old test of shaking the valve and listening for a rattle is only partially helpful. No rattle may show a stuck valve, on many designs, but the valve could rattle freely and still be bad. Use Best Practices and change the valve. This little cheap part, if not changed in time, will cost thousands of dollars in engine repairs if not changed at the recommended interval.
Fresh oil in the PCV hose suggests a problem
Another definitive PCV valve test is to remove the vacuum hose and look for fresh oil. A PCV vacuum hose, with oil dripping or a wet valve, usually suggests too much flow, which causes oil consumption. Checking the PCV vacuum hose is a wise precaution, on any engine that consumes oil. Also, if you see blue smoke coming from the tailpipe can mean many reasons, but the first step is to check the PCV valve. Basics First!
A digital manometer can detect a plugged PCV valve
The PCV valve flows at different rates, under various driving conditions. For instance, at a high engine vacuum, the valve should hardly flow at all. An Excess flow at an engine idle will interfere with smooth running. With a lower intake vacuum, flow through the PCV valve increases. A quality auto repair shop will have a tool called a manometer. The manometer measures the very small negative pressure is related to flow. Testing is done at the engine idle speed, under acceleration, and under a positive intake condition.
A PCV valve can also stick in the closed position, which allows crankcase pressure and blow-by to build up pressure and can damage gaskets and seals. Auto Technicians also test back pressure with a manometer. Positive pressure in the crankcase is a sign of a problem. When the engine begins to develop oil leaks, especially at multiple locations, the PCV system should always be considered.
Extensive testing may be a moot point as the cost of a replacement valve is normally very low. Cleaning an old valve is much the same. It is rarely effective, and the replacement of any suspected PCV valve is often far more practical.
PCV valve design variations
For many years, the PCV valve remained relatively unchanged. Today a multitude of designs and sizes exist, but most operate similarly. A few manufacturers add heating elements to their PCV valves. It is thought cold temperature could cause a non-heated valve to freeze and stick, because of moisture drawn through the system. Heating keeps the PCV valve from freezing is prevented.
Ford uses two designs for heated PCV valves as well as conventional non-heated valves on their engines. One heated design flows engine coolant through tubes to keep the valve warm. Another design is electrically operated. A heating coil inside the valve is used to keep the PCV valve from freezing.
The drawback of heated PCV valves is cost. Heated PCV valves cost many times more than non-heated valves. Most manufacturers simply rely on the engine, and crankcase vapors, heat to get the job done.
Replacing a PCV valve
Replacing a PCV valve is normally very easy to do, once the location is found. Most simply push into a rubber grommet. Remove the exit hose and a slight twist breaks them free. A light pull removes the valve, so they can be replaced. Some Ford valves use a quarter-turn system. These are rotated a quarter turn, counter-clockwise before pulling out. A few other designs are threaded in and must be unscrewed to remove.
Ford Explorer with 4.0L engine, PCV valve location
Some PCV valves are also very difficult to access, and others not. Take, for instance, the 4.0L Ford Explorer, in the picture above, has a valve in the rear of the driver’s side valve cover. While it can be difficult to find the PCV valve, especially if we do not know the location, you can ask an automotive technician here on www.autorepairhelp.us to know where your positive crankcase valve is. To access the valve on a 2.3L Ford Escape we remove the intake manifold. Late-model Toyota four-cylinder engines may also place the PCV valve under the intake manifold. With such vast designs, replacing the valve when we remove the intake manifold for any reason is wise.
Not all engines today use the PCV valve
Some manufacturers lower the cost of material by substituting a restrictor for the PCV valve. This PCV valve uses an orifice and a small reservoir to perform some of the functions previously handled by the PCV valve. A small hole allows enough vacuum to draw fumes from the engine, but not enough to cause a rough idle. The orifice may become clogged in time and need replacement. Hoses on such a system are also prone to deterioration and have to be replaced when they fail.
A PCV valve often lasts around 80,000 miles or more and is usually replaced at the first general ignition tune-up. Some can fail much earlier. Short [under ten miles] trips in the vehicle, will cause the valve to fail sooner. Under extreme conditions, a 30,000-mile replacement may be needed. Because of the low cost and easy to replace on most vehicles, changing the PCV valve is a wise decision. If your engine is approaching these mileages or has developed an oil leak, have the PCV system checked as soon as possible. It could save a lot of money in the long run. After all your vehicle is your second best investment.
Modified and Additional information by Master Tech Lee
If you need help replacing your PCV valve please contact us and we will provide you with the replacement interval and help you step by step for free.
Heat Shield Buzz Heard While Driving GM Trucks
Some customers may comment on a pinging popping snapping noise from underneath the vehicle at idle or immediately after the vehicle is shut off. Pinging popping snapping noise: from the exhaust system during cool down is a normal condition. The noise may be intermittent depending on the outside temperature and or temperature of the exhaust system at the time of testing. Some customers may also comment on a buzz noise coming from the muffle: during vehicle operation.
As the exhaust system cools, the muffler shell and muffler internals contract at different rates. Pinging popping snapping noise from the exhaust system during cool down is a normal condition.
Why Muffler Buzz
If the muffler heat shield straps are loose, the heat shield may be free to buzz.
DO NOT REPLACE THE EXHAUST SYSTEM COMPONENTS.
Exhaust Pinging/Popping/Snapping Noise, This condition is normal to the muffler design and does not indicate poor quality or part failure.
Confirm Muffler Buzz
Confirm the origin of the buzz by shimming (use metal shims) the straps tight and start the engine, if the buzz concern is gone, then it is caused by the loose shield. Using the following procedure, install new straps to secure the heat shield to the muffle:.
1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in Owners Manual.
Auto Muffler Strap
2. Mark the position of the heat shield (1) and straps (2) on the muffler shell.
Vehicle’s heat shield – Remove Muffler Strap
3. Cut and remove the heat shield straps using tin snips along the muffler shell seam (1), and remove the shield from the muffler.
4. Position the heat shield to the muffler and install new heat shield straps on the muffler shell in the positions marked prior to removal.
Install New Muffler Straps
Do Not position the strap screw heads directly across from the propeller shaft. Ensure the strap heads are positioned below the midpoint of the muffler. Position the strap screw heads (1) on the inboard side of the muffle:. Ensure that the strap screw heads (1) are below the midpoint of the muffler. Tighten the straps to 4 Nm (35lb.in). Cut off the excess strap material and ensure that the ends (2)are flat against the muffler.
Description: Strap, Exhaust Muffler Heat Shield
Qty: 2 or 3
Subject: V8 Engines:
Muffler Heat Shield Buzz During Vehicle Operation or Exhaust Pinging Popping Snapping Noise (Normal Condition) When Vehicle is Hot, at Idle, or Immediately After Vehicle is Shut Off’ (Perform Repair as Outlined Below)
2007-2011 Cadillac Escalade. Escalade Hybrid Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT
2007-2011 Chevrolet Avalanche. Silverado. Suburban. Tahoe, Tahoe Hybrid
2007-2011 GMC Siena, Sierra Denali, Yukon, Yukon Hybrid Yukon XL, Yukon Denali, Yukon Denali XL
Equipped with the following V8 Engines:
- 4.8E RPO LY2, L20)
- 13E RPOs E9, LH6, EMG, LYS)
- 6.0E (RPOs EFA, EY6, LZ1, L96)
- 6.2L (RPOs E9H, L92, L94)
Please Refer to GWI1IVH
For all your automotive needs go to www.autohelprepair.us. We are an On Line Repair Service helping Professionals, Do it yourselfers, and the Beginners in aiding with Auto Repair and Diagrams, for Domestic and Import cars, trucks, and vans.
(Tire Sliding on Wheel) Models: 2013 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Vibration Caused by Wheel Slip
A customer concern of tire vibration shortly after having a tire or tires mounted may be caused by slippage of the tires on the wheels, placing the imbalance point of the tire away from the weight location. Wheel slip is a condition that occurs when the tire slips and rotates on the wheel during acceleration or braking. This can cause the assembly to become imbalanced and result in the customer returning with a vibration from the tire wheel assembly. Wheel slip is most common on clear coated or chrome wheels with very smooth bead seat areas, but may also occur on other alloy or steel wheels. Most slippage occurs immediately after mounting. Using preferred tire mounting lubricants and proper lubricant application techniques can prevent wheel slip from occurring.
Wheel slip normally occurs for the following reasons:
– Excessive amount of lubricant used or lubricant applied in the wrong locations.
– Improper lubricants. non-preferred lubricants or improperly dilute d lubricants may contain excessive moisture or components that do not dry sufficiently, resulting in an interface between the tire and rim that is excessively slippery.
Checking For Wheel Slip
Vehicles that return immediately with ride disturbances and out of balance assemblies should be checked for wheel slip. Wheel slip can be checked by placing a temporary mark on the tire at the valve stem. After driving the vehicle, if the wheel slip is less than one inch, then wheel slip is probably not contributing to a ride disturbance. When wheel slip is greater than one inch, and you felt a ride disturbance on the test drive, then wheel slip may be causing the vibration.
This diagnostic test will only be effective if the vehicle has been serviced within the last couple of hours.
Best Practices to Eliminate Wheel Slip
Wheel slip can usually be prevented with the proper application of tire mounting lubricants in a controlled and consistent manner. The following are some recommended best practices for eliminating wheel slip.
- Prior to the tire installation, clean the tire changer’s wheel-contact parts of any excess lubrication, dirt or grime.
- Clean the bead seat areas of the wheel of any leftover lubricant used to demount the tire.
- Inspect the tire to be installed and clean any manufacturing related lubricants from the bead area as necessary. Use an approved rubber cleaning fluid that would commonly be used during the tire repair process.
- Do not use products containing silicone, alcohol, petroleum based products, solvents or corrosives for cleaning or lubrication.
- Lubricate the tire and wheel as shown in the following illustrations. To eliminate wheel slip, the tire beads should normally only be lubricated from “heel to toe.”
Lubricant applied outside the heel to toe zone will cause the tire to have reduced grip on the wheel and increase the likelihood of slippage. When lubricating the wheel lubricate the safety humps, leave the rim flanges dry and lubricate the drop center area only for difficult to mount tires.
- When additional lubrication is required during mounting to prevent tire damage, the excess lubricant should be wiped or cleaned from the tire bead area and the wheel bead seat area before inflating to seat the beads.
- The mounting process must be completed within 10 minutes of the application of the mounting lubricant. Evaporation of the mounting lubricant after 10 minutes may prevent proper bead seating.
- Inflate the tires to 275 k Pa (40 psi) when mounting, then reduce the air pressure to
the desired operating pressure.
- Place a temporary mark on the sidewall of the tire at the valve stem.
- Re-balance the tires and mount on the vehicle.
- Park the vehicle for one hour to allow the lubricant to evaporate.
Note: Technicians should not brake or accelerate quickly when moving vehicles from the hoist to the parking lot.
- Test drive the vehicle to confirm the ride disturbance has been corrected. Confirm that the mark on the tire is still aligned with the valve stem locations and remove the temporary mark. The above photo shows the possible amount of slip.
Preferred Lubricant Recommendations
To minimize rim slip, always use commercially available lubricants made for bead seating to assist in tire mounting. Paste type lubes are recommended because the application can be better controlled and paste type lubes will not drip onto areas that should not be lubricated. If lubricants that require dilution are used, be sure to carefully follow the lubricant manufacturer’s instructions. Under diluted mixtures will not dry soon enough, which may cause wheel slip. Over diluted mixtures will dry too fast and may hamper proper
Suitable paste lubricants include Rema Tip-Top(R) Tire Universal Mounting Paste if available in your area, Kent Xtra-Seal(TM) Euro-Paste Mounting Compound or equivalent. The Kent product is distributed nationally. Contact 1-800-YES-KENT for additional information on this product.
When mounting the tires, rubber lubricant must be used. Also, the vehicle should not be driven aggressively (hard acceleration or braking) for up to 24 hours after tire mounting to allow the lubricant to dry. Failure to do so may cause the tire to slip on the rim. This condition will affect wheel balance, which could result in a vibration.
Lubricate the tire as shown in the following illustration. To eliminate wheel slip, the tire beads should normally only be lubricated from “heel to toe.” Lubricant applied outside the heel to toe zone will cause the tire to have reduced grip on the wheel and increase the likelihood of slippage.
Tire Bead Lubrication
The following diagram illustrates the recommended lubrication of the wheel to prevent wheel slip. Lubricate the safety humps. Leave the rim flanges dry. Lubricate the drop center area only for difficult to mount tires.
Wheel Lubrication Points
It is advisable especially for customers who are waiting for their vehicle during servicing be made aware that recently mounted tires should not be driven on in an aggressive manner. It may take up to 24 hours before the lubricant is completely dry and tires achieve maximum adherence to the rims. No matter the style of driving exhibited during the drying period, no air loss, or other detrimental attributes are possible from this condition. Wheel slip relative to the rim is merely a customer dissatisfier due to the potential to induce undesired vibration.
Ask an automotive repair question at www.autorepairhelp.us
The last thing any driver needs is to break down in the cold, harsh winter weather. A vehicle check now before winter arrives is a sensible way to avoid the inconvenience of being stranded out in the cold and with the unexpected expense of emergency repairs, says Auto Repair Help.US.
“Winterizing your vehicle before the temperatures drop is a wise idea,” said Lee Davidian, Sr., owner operator of Auto Repair Help.US. “An investment of an hour or two to have your vehicle checked is all it takes to have peace of mind and help avoid the cost and hassle of vehicle trouble during severe weather.”
Auto Repair Help.US recommends the following steps for winterizing your vehicle:
- If you are due for a tune-up, have it done before winter sets in. Winter magnifies existing problems such as pings, hard starts, sluggish performance or rough idling.
- Have the battery and charging system checked for optimum performance. Cold weather is hard on batteries. A voltage reading of 14.3 to 14.7 is typically what is considered the norm for the charging system. So compare your readings from the starter and charging test performed on your car or truck.
- Have your engine belts inspected – When a drive belt breaks, for example, the alternator is no longer charging battery and supplying current to accessories.
Timing belt (s). This is very important and must be done at the interval the manufacturer has suggested. Otherwise, permanent engine damage may result. The cold weather is especially hard on a cold engine during start up.
- Clean, flush and put new antifreeze in the cooling system. As a general rule of thumb, this should be done every two years. A mixture of 50% antifreeze (coolant) and 50%water inside your radiator is crucial. This will prevent the mixture from freezing even at ridiculously cold temperatures. It is easy to check the status of the mixture with an inexpensive antifreeze tester, which you can pick up at any auto parts store. If the mixture is off, your cooling system should be drained and refilled or flushed. Be sure you are equipped to dispose of your old antifreeze properly if you do this job yourself. It cannot just be poured down the drain.
- Make sure heaters, defrosters and wipers work properly. Consider winter wiper blades and use cold weather washer fluid. As a general rule, wiper blades should be replaced every six months.
- Check the tire tread depth and tire pressure. If snow and ice are a problem in your area, consider special tires designed to grip slick roads. During the winter, tire pressure should be checked weekly. Remember, check tires Cold, not Hot; meaning if you came off the highway after driving awhile tire pressure will rise. So if you let the air out of tire thinking you have too much, the next morning you will have a low tire. You can generally expect that you’ll lose 1 pound per square inch whenever the temperature drops by 10 degrees Fahrenheit.) Again, your trusty owner’s manual will tell you what your target tire pressure should be.
- Have the brakes checked. The braking system is the vehicle is most important safety item.
- Have the exhaust system checked for carbon monoxide leaks, which can be especially dangerous during cold weather driving when windows are closed.
- Check to see that exterior and interior lights work and headlights are properly aimed.
- Be diligent about changing the oil and filter at recommended intervals. Dirty oil can spell trouble in winter. Consider changing to “winter weight” oil if you live in a cold climate. Have your technician check the fuel,air and transmission filters at the same time. Plus, have the Positive Crankcase Valve (PCV) checked as well.
- Motorists should also keep the gas tank at least half full at all times to decrease the chances of moisture forming in the gas lines and possibly freezing. A good prevention to rid moisture and gas lines from freezing up is to use isopropanol antifreeze. Drivers should check the tire pressure of the spare in the trunk and stock an emergency. Prepare an emergency kit. Store this stuff in your trunk during the winter months, especially if a road trip is in your future:
- a blanket, extra boots and gloves, an extra set of warm clothes, extra water and food, including hard candies, an ice scraper, a small shovel, a flashlight, windshield washer fluid, windshield wipers, flares, jumper cables, a tool kit, tire chains, a tire gauge, a spare tire with air in it, tire-changing equipment, a first-aid kit, paper towels, a bag of abrasive material such as sand, salt or non-clumping kitty litter, which can provide additional traction if a tire gets stuck in snow.
1990-2009 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn); 2003-2009 HUMMER H2, H3; 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X – Low Voltage Display on IP Gauge, Lights Dim at Stop Lights, Battery Discharged, No Start, Slow Cranking, Dim Lights at Idle, Low Generator Output.
SERVICE INFORMATION: Any vehicle may have a low-voltage-display (if equipped with gauges), lights that dim at stop lights, slow cranking, no start, low generator output at idle or dim lights at idle when electrical loads are heavy at idle or under slow driving or infrequent usage conditions. These characteristics may be more noticeable with customer added electrical accessories, or with a discharged battery. These are normal operating characteristics of a vehicle’s electrical system and no repairs should be attempted unless a proven fault has been diagnosed. During normal driving conditions, when engine speed is above 1000 RPM, the generator is designed to do two things:
- Supply the current necessary to operate the vehicle’s originally equipped electrical devices (Loads).
- Recharge maintains the battery’s state of charge.
The following factors may affect generator and battery performance: Non-usage of the vehicle for extended periods of time the vehicle’s computers, clocks and the like will cause the battery state of charge to drop (For example; 30 days in a parking lot and the vehicle may not start because of a dead battery or a vehicle, which is driven only a short distance once a week may end up with a discharged battery to the point where the vehicle may not start). This would be considered abnormal usage of the vehicle and the normally expected result for the vehicle battery, generator and electrical systems. At idle, vehicle electrical loads may exceed the low-speed current (amperage) output of the generator and when this happens the shortfall comes from the battery. This will result in a drop in the electrical system voltage as the battery delivers the additional electrical current to meet the demand. This is equivalent to the brown outs experienced by homes and businesses when the electrical demand is more than the supply. See Fig. 1. Fig. 1: View of Typical Generator Performance Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
- Extended periods of engine idling, with high electrical loads may result in a discharged battery. Attempting to recharge a battery by letting the engine run at idle may not be beneficial unless all electrical loads are turned “OFF”.
- Increased internal generator temperatures from extended idling can also contribute to lower electrical system voltage. As the generator’s internal temperature rises, the generator’s output capability is reduced due to increased electrical resistance.
Examples of Electrical Loads
Dimming lights at idle may be considered normal for two reasons: Depending on the vehicle application, generator current (amperage) output at engine idle speeds of 600-700 RPM can be as low as 35 percent of the full rated output. With enough electrical loads “ON”, it is easy to exceed the generator current (amperage) output when the engine is at an idle of 600-700 RPM. This is a normal condition. The battery supplements for short periods of time. Items that affect the vehicles electrical system current and voltage at idle are the number of electrical loads being used, including add-on accessories, and extended idle times. When the vehicle speed is above approximately 24 km/h (15 mph), the engine “generator RPM is high enough and the generator current (amperage) output is sufficient to supply the current (amperage) requirements of the vehicle as originally equipped and recharge the battery.
- As the engine’s generator speed changes, so will the current (amperage) output of the generator As a vehicle slows, engine’ generator RPM slows and the current (amperage) output of the generator may not be sufficient to supply the loads, the vehicle system voltage will drop and the lights will dim. Dimming of the lights is an indication that current is being pulled from the battery. If the battery is in a low state-of-charge (discharged condition), the driver will notice a more pronounced dimming than a vehicle with a fully charged battery.
- When high current loads (blower, rear defogger, headlamps, cooling fan, heated seats: power seats, electric “AIR” pump, or power windows) are operating or cycled “ON”, the generator’s voltage regulator can delay the rise in output. This effect, usually at lower engine speeds, can take up to ten seconds to ramp up the generator output. This is done to avoid loading the engine severely. To increase current (amperage) output, the generator consumes additional torque. The engine computer (ECM/PCM) will ramp up engine/generator speed in small steps so engine speed variations are not noticeable to the driver.
Where to purchase the Mopar1973Man.Com High Idle / MPG Fooler Mod?
Sorry gang, I do not directly sell any products. But if you visit Diesel Auto Power web site they will be the dealer that handles the high idle kits.
Diesel Auto Power:
Cubby Hole Mount
Gauge Pod Mount
Custom Flat Face Mount
If you are having problems getting the High Idle enabled on your truck you may rent a Smarty from Diesel Auto Power.
Smarty Rental For High Idle Enabling
High Idle / MPG Fooler Overhead Console Installation
Ed Grafton sent me a Mopar1973Man High Idle switch for me to install into my overhead console, and do a write-up on it This is for guys that have no where else to put it due to too many gauges, or in the rare case like Jigabop who has too many options. Ed Grafton extended the length of the wiring to allow for the wires to be run from the overhead console, under the headliner, down the A pillar, and into the engine bay. Whole install took about 2 hours.
Tools And Supplies Needed:
- 2 1/8″ whole saw
- Smaller drill bit to drill the center ( 1/4″ – 3/8″ something small to ensure the center hole is in the right position)
- Center Punch
- Straight Edge/Ruler 1/16″
- X Acto Knife
- Wire cutters/Strippers
- Soldering Iron
- Heat Shrink
- Phillips Screw driver
- Super glue or strong glue of choice
- Zip Ties
First thing you need to do is remove and unplug the overhead console. Do this by opening up the Garage Door Opener holder. You will see two clips that hold it onto the roof ( near the front). While pressing the clips pull down the front and slide it back.
Next you need to remove the wiring and computer. Remote the Phillips screws hold in the lights (x4) and the Phillips screws holding in the Computer (x3) – Notice: the hole between the lights, this is where Mopar1973Man’s High Idle wiring harness will be feed through. There is plenty of room between the console and the roof.
Remove the face plate from the Mopar1973Man High Idle Switch. Do this by removing the set screen in the knob and pulling the knob off. Remove the retaining nut and spacer. You will need to reinstall this later in the reverse order to take care to remember how it dissembled so you can reassemble it. Just looking at the Overhead Console you can see it fits about perfect right between the lights. That being said it is easy to see that if you don’t measure the center of the lights you will mess up and break your lights and end up with an off center hole.
Measurements you want for the center of the plate is 1″ vertical and 13/16″ horizontal
From the corners draw lines to find the center then verify with the above measurements. Measure and measure again.
User a Center Punch to set the middle for the drill bit. ENSURE that you are perfectly centered. If this center is not perfect your face plate WILL NOT FIT.
After using the Center Punch, place the drill bit in the center to set the center hole for the hole saw. Again ensure that the drill is set perfectly in the middle BEFORE drilling.
Next use the 2 1/8″ Hole saw to cut out a circle for the face plate to sit in.
Drill slowly and stop as often as needed to reduce the amount of heat build up to prevent the plastic from melting too much.
Verify that the hole you are cutting fits between the clear lens for the lights.
Again it will be close, but it does fit. Above all take your time cutting the hole out. The slower you do it the better the end result will be. The plastic is bound to melt some, but you can take care of this with the help of an xacto knife.
Once the hole is cut flip over the overhead console and verify that the clip section for the lens is intact. If you notice any breaks glue them back together. You may need to remove the lens to ensure you don’t loose the functionality of the button press lights by gluing them shut.
Using your face plate and X-acto knife fit the face plate into the cut hole. You may need to cut out some melted plastic etc to get the faceplate to fit good. Test the movement of the lens once the gauge is test fitted. Cut overhead console as needed to make the lens work.
Once you are satisfied with the fitment/position of the face plate glue it into place in the console. I choose to have the LED towards the back of the truck, but you can rotate the faceplate until it is in the position of your choosing. Glue from the back in a few locations slowly to ensure that no glue seeps to the front of the faceplate. Once the glue has dried then install the switch assembly into the faceplate in the reverse order of which you disassembled it. You will have to test the knob position, Far left is the off position. Once you have aligned the switch assembly tighten down the retaining nut that holds the faceplate. Reinstall the knob and verify again the turning the knob all the way counter-clockwise makes the knob point to the off position.
Next reinstall the lights and computer by feeding Mopar1973Man High Idle wires through the OEM lights and reinstalling the Phillips screws in the reverse order of the above. Take your time when reinstalling to ensure that the harness fits and the lights click again when you press the lights. It will take a little work to get everything fitting good, but you will not need to cut anything on the light and button assembly. Gently bend Mopar1973Man’s High Idle harness to contort in the same place as the OEM wires.
Next you need to supply power to the LED light. Thankfully there is 12v power already in the overhead console. The pink wire coming off the plug is 12v and the black wire next to it is ground. The pink wire is a keyed power wire, the yellow wire is a power that is supplied based upon doors open and interior lights.
Cut the Black and Pink wire with enough length to install heat shrink on the end. I cut them about 2″ from the OEM plug. Strip the red and black wire that are together in the white conduit. Ensure that you DON’T cut the wires that go to the OEM plugs for ECT and IAT. There will be 4 wires in the harness that goes to the engine and 2 wires in the harness that you are cutting. Pre-install the heatshrink wrap onto the plug side of the cut wires. Solder together the cut pink wires and the red wire in Mopar1973Man’s High Idle harness. Then Solder together the cut black wires and the black wire in Mopar1973Man’s High Idle harness. Using a lighter heat up the heat shrink wrap to seal your solder splice. Use a zip tie to hold the wires together.
Test the led in the switch by plugging the OEM connection and turning the High idle switch to any position. If it doesn’t work use a multi-meter to test for power to the OEM connector.
Next remove your sun visor by removing the 4 Phillips screws holding it to the roof. Feed the Mopar1973Man’s High Idle ECT/IAT harness under the headliner by Gently pulling it down. It doesn’t take much. Once you feed it through the console hole in the headliner you can pull it towards the A pillar. There is plenty of room for the harness to run between the window and the front of the headliner. You can slip it under the headliner easily. The A pillar cover will pull off by just popping it out. Use zip ties to the hold Mopar1973Man’s High Idle harness to the OEM wiring running down the A pillar.
Route the wiring through the dash and through the firewall into the Engine bay. Once at this point the install is the same as the other Types of installs for Mopar1973Man’s High Idle switch.
You will end up with something that looks like this.
High Idle / MPG Fooler Diagnostic
I know a bunch of you have either built your own high idle mod or purchased one through Diesel Auto Power. But I know a few of you have had some diagnostic problems or have had issues after installing. Well this little write up should walk you through most of it ad figure out what is going on.
Ok let get down to tools… You’ll need a DVM (Digital Volt Meter) set on ohms.
Now lets start with the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) fooler…
Now with the female plug which is the plug that hooks to the ECM (Engine Control Module) we want to measure the ohms at this plug with the fooler in the ON position. It should read 3.3K ohms. If its open check the other male connector and see if the values shows if it does you have your plug sex backward and need to be traded. If open on both test check the wiring for breaks or toggle the fooler switch the other direction.
Now for the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) Fooler
Now lets test the normal mode. This is the normal pass through mode without the foolers…
Now here in the normal mode both IAT (Intake air Temperature) and ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor) fooler should operate the same with 0 Ohms between RED and BLUE arrows. Now you might see a OPEN at this point but trade pins on one plug and see if you get 0 ohm… There should be a pair of 0 ohm wires coming and going probing from the ECM to the sensor plugs. If this remains OPEN double check your fooler switch and make sure its in the OFF position. Now if it continues to be a open there is a open wire somewhere.
Now for error codes with High Idle Mod in place.
IAT Fooler Error Codes
P0112 means you most likely got a short to ground double check your wiring for cuts, shorts, etc.
P0113 means you got a OPEN wire in the fooler go back and test the bypass mode for problems.
In any case remove the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) fooler reset the code and take for a short test drive if the code returns the sensor is at fault.
ECT Fooler Error Codes
P0117 means you most likely got a short to ground double check your wiring for cuts, shorts, etc.
P0118 means you got a OPEN wire in the fooler go back and test the bypass mode for problems.
In any case remove the ECT (Engine Coolant temperature) fooler reset the code and take for a short test drive if the code returns the sensor is at fault.
High Idle: Detecting if the ECM has been enabled for high idle
High Idle / MPG Fooler Cubby Hole Installation
High Idle / MPG Fooler Overhead Console Installation
High Idle / MPG Fooler where to purchase